PARIS – To introduce its Dior Homme S/S 2017 collection, the legendary French fashion house moved away from catwalks sown with entire conservatories of flowers and miles of mirror to a more notionally active centrepiece, a roller coaster that was suspended – floating magically – at the heart of an otherwise conventional depot. Designed by Brussels-based production studio Villa Eugénie, the roller coaster looked like a vast piece of punk jewellery in the low light, a roiling track riveted with festively coloured marquee lights that glowed in the twilight of the sky-lit setting.
The collection, by Belgian fashion designer and Dior Homme artistic director Kris Van Assche, a young man often influenced by a fusion of subcultures and generations, was dominated by screen-printed suit jackets and waistcoats mixed with leather harnesses and martial detailing, which Van Assche co-opted from athletic apparel.
Mounted atop a runway plated with embossed metal, the narrow black roller coaster featured precipitously coiling loops and carnivalesque lights, in and out of which the models threaded. Although site-specific, the scenography elicited a feeling shared by youth on the cusp of adulthood around the globe: Van Assche wanted the environment to evoke the industrial-rustic Sinksenfoor fairground in Antwerp, where young people gather, anticipating an evening filled with unexpected encounters and unknown adventure.